If the front of your car is on the ground, but the back is fine, your may have a compressor problem. Your compressor needs to be putting out at least 90 psi, but 120 psi would be perfect. You can check the pressure at the schrader valve on the side of the compressor housing. You can also hook up an air hose to the schrader valve. If the front end picks up and stays up, the compressor is bad. I suggest the pressure test for a foolproof conclusion. The compressor is located under the hood on the driver's side in front of the battery. It has 2 parts: the compressor and a dryer. The compressor is the metal part. The dryer is made of round plastic and has 4 colored hoses coming out of the top.

There is one important thing to know, the LSC uses a special air compressor. It will not swap with any other model of Lincoln. Not even a Bill Blass will fit. You must get the correct compressor for you car.

First off, switch off the air suspension (in the truck, above the spare tire). Next, you can unplug the power wire from the compressor. It should be a "D" shaped connector about 3/4" wide. Now for the fun part. You want to remove the 4 hoses coming out of the top of the dryer. They are held in with brass compression fittings. DO NOT CUT THEM LOOSE! You can gently pry them loose. I found a pair if side cutters can grip the top of the brass fittings. Work them gently upwards until the hose is free. Save the brass fittings, you will need them later. If you lose or destroy a fitting, your local Lincoln dealer will tell you he does not sell them. IT IS BULL! Order a "solenoid installation kit". It will come with a couple o-rings and 1 brass fitting. Problem solved. Cost: about $7.

Allright, you now have the compressor free from it's connections. You can not unbolt it from the fender. Do NOT seperate the compressor from the dryer. The seal is old and brittle and you may never get it to seal back. These should be 3 bolts holding the compressor to the fender. There are also rubber insulators. These are important and keep the compressor from rattling the car apart. Once the 3 bolts are out, the compressor should lift out. I found it easier to work when I pulled the battery out.

Your new/rebuilt/salvage compressor should be ready to go in now. If you have a new compressor or nice rebuilt, there will be new brass fittings in the dryer. If you have a salvage unit, hopefully they cut the lines and left the brass fittings. Pry out the lines/fitting and use the best fittings in the reassembly. Go ahead and bolt in the new compressor. Don't forget the rubber insulators, it will make a heck of a racket without them. Now, the location of the air lines into the top of the dryer does not matter. If you would like, a little dab of silicone sealer can be used around the brass fitting to seal it. Do not use too much or you may clog the air line. Slide the brass fittings into the top of the dryer, split-end down. Hopefully your air lines are intact with the original ends. If not, you just need enough length to get to the dryer. Using your hands, gently push each air line down into the brass fittings. Once all 4 are in place, GENTLY push them down a little more using a pair of broad head pliars (so as to not pinch the hose). The brass fittings do a pretty good job in sealing the lines. You can now plug in the compressor, making sure the connection is solid. If you yanked out the battery, you can put it back in now. Don't bolt it down yet. Turn on the air ride switch in the truck and crank the car. The compressor should come on quickly (if the car is sitting low, you may have to jack it up to let some air out, then lower it back down). Now you can check for leaks. I had to redo my dryer connections twice before I got them right. A little dab of silicone really helps. If you use silicone, give it time to dry before cranking up the compressor. Hopefully, your car should rise up and stay up from now on. That wasn't so hard, was it?