Now that the MAF conversion and cruise is done and working properly, I'll continue on and see if I can screw it up.

First thing,,.you've got to relieve the residual pressure in the fuel system. My "crude but effective" way of doing this is whack the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk with the jack handle so it trips, then start it up and let it stall, (you can take the boy off the farm, but you can't take the farm out of the boy, I guess,.). Disconnect the battery. Pull off upper intake (again!). If you're REALLY careful you can lift this up and away (to the pass. side) without unhooking accelerator and TV cables and the water lines to the EGR spacer (if you still have them,I had a Cobra upper without the water to the EGR). Unhook PCV vacuum line at the driver side rear of intake. Pull off intake hose to throttle body. Remove upper-to-lower intake bolts (if your upper intake's stock, two are hidden under the trim plate that says 5.0 HO) ,disconnect and note locations on vacuum lines on tree at rear center of intake upper. Lift and rotate upper half of intake toward passenger side and prop it up,.or duct tape it to the hood hinge like I did so you can pull the fuel rail assembly.

Also take your 200 mph tape and cover the ports in the lower intake with it,.if you drop shit down there you're %#@&ed.

Disconnect supply and return fuel lines with the disconnect kit you bought from the nice man at the Carquest store. Disconnect and number the injector wires,..you mix these up and it'll be a real slug,.. Clean ALL of the crap and corruption off of the lower intake around the injectors,.I used a shop vac,.you don't want any shrapnel down the injector holes. Remove 4 bolt holding fuel rail to lower half of intake. Take this over to the workbench and polish it up,.there's chrome under all that cheese and crud. Remove injectors (that didn't stick in the rail) and account for ALL of the o-rings (2 per injector) before you go any further.

Ok, now go wash your hands, you filthy creature. Trust me, I'm going somewhere with this,.when reassembling the rail/injectors cleanliness is of the utmost importance. One piece of crud and you've got a screwed-up injector or a fuel leak,..either of which is bad juju. Lube up the NEW (don't reuse the old ones!) o-rings on the bottom of the injectors with a coat of white grease, ATF, Vaseline or equivalent veenerschlipper. Push injectors into lower intake one by one making sure they're seated properly. If you don't already have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator this is where you run and get one,.major PITA to install it later. Lube up each top o-ring and re-install your cleaned and polished fuel rail (don't waste your $ on trick aftermarket rails,.stockers will support in excess of 600 hp,.). After bolting down the rail, twist each injector to assure that o-rings are seated and reconnect supply and return fuel lines. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key on and off several times (DON'T, for God's sake, turn it to start!!) to allow fuel pump to pressure up the lines/rail/injectors and check for leaks.

No leaks? Good. Reverse procedure and reassemble. Extra parts leftover (except injectors/o-rings/old FPR) is not a good sign. Chec all Vacuum connections,..PCV, FPR, EVR solenoids, etc. BTW, that is a STUPID place for a PCV valve,..only an engineer would put a service component in a God-forsaken place like that,, Get a beer/MLH/etc. Here comes another of my digressions,..

You've gotta alter the EEC-IV to keep the air/fuel mixtures correct with the larger injectors. A 30# injector requires a shorter pulsewidth than a 19#'er to deliver the same amount of fuel. There's a couple of ways to do this,.a recalibrated MAS, or, a stock MAS (or one like the KB that's calibrated like the stocker) and a "chip". In the process of my blower conversion I've tried both,.I prefer the chip (sorry Rick!) for the following reasons,.."Recalibrated" MAS's goof up the load tables in the EEC by altering the signal to the processor to represent an artificially small "air flow" to fool the EEC into delivering the correct amount of fuel even though the injectors are larger. Along with the "small" air flow comes over-advanced timing,.not really a major problem with a device like the MSD-6BTM to get the timing back down under boost, but read on. The KB MAS is calibrated like the stock one (my MAF conversion was done with stock Mustang processor, 19# injectors, and the KB MAS,.driveability remained 100%) so the necessary EEC calibration changes were in the "chip". This serves another purpose,..and I realized this after the fact,.by using a "chip" to change EEC calibration (ie: injector pulsewidth) to correctly operate the larger injectors some sort of voodoo shit happens inside the processor and the signal at Pin 34 (DOL/data out line) is still correct! The message center in my KB'ed, MAF converted LSC w/30# injectors still CORRECTLY calculates fuel economy and "distance to empty" (and I've checked and re-checked it, believe me). To you this may be a stupid reason to use a chip versus a "recalibrated" MAS, but it's my story and I'm stickin' to it. My goal with this car was no compromises and no loss of the LSC's many amenities. ,.so I'm a proponent of "chips",.

Back to the salt mines,..Install the recalibrated MAS or chip. If you chose the chip, make SURE you clean the connections at the EEC-IV service port really well (don't plug it in backwards, either,.it's possible,.) and don't reinstall the processor until you're sure everything's A-OK (like the MAF conversion).

At this stage of the game I stopped,.and drove it for a week or so. Everything still functioned correctly, driveability was still 100% normal,.fuel consumption (under normal conditions) was unaffected,.I wanted to check everything out and assure that everything was OK. A couple of days into this week I felt comfortable enough with the car's operation to install the 70mm throttle body. Installed it ,.everything was fine EXCEPT for cold (30-40 degrees) start,.it went vroom, vroom, vroom, for 20-30 seconds before stabilizing at a normal smooth idle.. If anyone has this problem after installing a larger throttle body, e-mail me (jim@cmsinter.net) ,..I'll explain/tell you the fix,.it's a no-brainer but you won't find it in any manual.